The City by Two Rivers - Belgrade

As we head south on the Danube River from Budapest, we will have a scenic morning cruise to Mohács, Hungary. The Battle of Mohács in 1526 and 1687 represented the beginning and the end of the Ottoman domination of Hungary. The Habsburgs took over the area from the Ottomans. This small hamlet has a population of less than 20,000. And is the off point on the banks of the Danube to visit Pécs, Hungary, the 5th largest city in Hungary. If you choose not to visit Pécs and are the adventurous type, you can take an exhilarating guided bike tour around Mohács along the Danube.

Pécs is located close to the border of Croatia on the slopes of the Mecsek Mountains in the south-west of the country. Pécs was founded more than 2,000 years ago by the Romans. If you take the Pécs city excursion you will visit the UNESCO-designated Christian Necropolis; St. Peter’s Basilica, the city’s main Catholic cathedral along with its catacombs; and Széchenyi Square, the heart of Old Town Pécs; as well as the Mosque of Pasha Qasim the Victorious. Or you can enjoy a wine tasting tour to the Szekszárd wine regions, one of the oldest red-wine-growing areas in Hungary, established over 2,000 years ago.

After enjoying your day in Mohács and Pécs we will continue to travel down the Danube to Vukovar. You can choose to visit Vukovar, a Croatian symbol of resistance, with a city tour showcasing the Ovcara Memorial and Eltz Castle. Or you can alternatively choose a Croatian wine tasting tour in Ilok, a center of wine production since Roman times. You will have the opportunity to sample its famous Grasevina, Traminac, and Frankovka wines.

Back on board in the afternoon to cruise to Novi Sad, sometimes referred to as “Serbian Athens”. You can discover Novi Sad on a walking tour to Dunavski Park and through Stari Grad, the Old Town center. If you want more active exploration join a guided bike tour or hike through Fruska Gora National Park. In the evening be sure to visit the Petrovaradin Fortress, a mighty stronghold no enemy has ever breached.

Novi Sad Petrovaradin Fortress is one the most substantial, complex, and preserved artillery bastions – a protected maze of underground tunnels and mine galleries with listening tunnels. You will tour well-preserved barracks, officers’ pavilions, food warehouses, arsenals, water stations, guardhouses, artillery sheds, powder houses, chapels, and monumental main gates. Its modern additions include a nightclub, restaurants, pastry shops, historical archive, museum, observatory, planetarium, synagogue, and artist’ studios and galleries. There is a clock tower that has a face more than 6.5 feet high and roles of the minute and hour hands are reversed (big hand points to the hour and the small hand to the minutes). It sits high up on the cliff so the fishermen can see from afar off. It still operates and rings every hour. Another popular stop is the catacombs located in the fortress. From the fortress, you will see stunning views of the city of Novi Sad and its bridges.

It is said that the Petrovaradin name is derived from numerous languages - ‘Petro” is Latin for rock, ‘var’ is Hungarian for town and ‘din’ is Turkish for faith – hence ‘Petrovaradin’ literally means ‘the town on the rock, firm as faith’. It is also called the “Gibraltar of the Danube” because of its strategic position on the cliffs. It was originally constructed under Roman rule, Cistercian monks expanded upon the fortress in the 13th century. It was captured by the Ottomans in 1526 and then won over by the Austrians in 1687. It was needed to keep the Turks at bay and protect Vienna and Budapest from further siege. What was left of the medieval fort was demolished by the Austrians in 1690. On October 18, 1692, a delegate of Emperor Leopold I laid the cornerstone of the present-day fortress. It was completed 88 years later and was the strongest and best-equipped fortress in the Austrian Empire with a garrison of 4,000 people, 400 canons, and massive gunpowder warehouses. Because war did not loom as a threat, the fortress then became an administrative, army, spy, and information center. It was demilitarized and in 1991, it was listed as a cultural and historical complex of great importance.

Two days after leaving Budapest we will arrive in Belgrade, the capital city of Serbia. There is a lot of history in Belgrade. The city tour includes the Kalemegdan Fortress and the Serbian Orthodox Temple of St. Sava. You can visit the Royal Palace, the official residence of the Serbian Royal Family; and the house of Flowers, the mausoleum of Marshal Tito, who became the first President of Yugoslavia. Or you alternately take a Belgrade guided bike tour or Belgrade Fortress hike. To top off the day you have the opportunity to enjoy a taste of the region by sampling Serbian plum brandy, Šlivovitz, and delicious local delights at the Quburich Distillery.

Belgrade is reemerging as one of the most vibrant cultural epicenters of Eastern Europe. A favorite pedestrian promenade, Prince Michael Street, (aka Knez Mihailova Street), has lively outdoor cafes, street performers, souvenir stands, and shopping boutiques. As one of the oldest streets, it has always been the center point of the city. The city today retains the same grid layout as in Roman rule. During the Ottoman occupation gardens, drinking fountains, and mosques were added. They disappeared after the Serbs gained their independence in the 1800s for a more modern flair. The styles of Renaissance and Art Nouveau were built by Serbia’s most-wealthy and influential families. The street was changed to Prince Michael Street a year after the popular Prince Mihailo Obrenović was assassinated. You will see a statue of the prince in Belgrade’s Republic Square.

The most delightful and authentic ways to explore new places is to immerse yourself in the local culture, customs, and activities. A perfect way to do this is to sit at the sidewalk cafés while people watching. You can also enjoy the Serbian cuisine and wines while viewing the stunning architecture.

As you travel along Prince Michael Street you will see numerous architectural styles. The Belgrade City Library (originally built as a hotel in the mid-1800s) is a beautiful example of the Romantic style of architecture. The block of urban homes at 46, 48, and 50 Prince Michael Street were built in 1870 and are the best example of traditional “Balkan” architecture, a transitional style from romanticism to renaissance. The street is listed in the Spatial Cultural-Historical Units of Great Importance so it is protected by the Republic of Serbia.

During Communist rule, the family homes built along the street were taken away by the state. Now they are cultural and commercial centers in the city. You will often see them decorated with colorful flowers during the summer months.

Note: Some information was obtained from Ama Waterways Gems of Southeast Europe itinerary.